PATRICK H DYKES - Proprietor

PATRICK’S CARS & TRUCKS
P.O.Box 10648
Casa Grande, AZ 85130
520-836-1117

Conversion with an alternator

This is probably the more widely used approach but some originality in appearance must be sacrificed. The minimal wiring changes are no big deal.

Use a DA plug which allows discarding the old voltage regulator. Here, the "Batt" wire that went to the regulator is extended to the post of the alternator where it meets the red wire of the DA plug. Then, "heat" is picked up at some convenient "ignit" spot (the switch or the coil wire) and a wire run to the white DA wire. Presto! The old regulator and the "field" and "arm" wire of the harness are also eliminated.

Here are the items and changes that will he needed, according to which procedure is adopted:

  1. A 12-Volt battery. (Pick a size that fits the carrier.)

  2. A 12-Volt regulator. (if using a generator)

  3. A 12-Volt Coil.

  4. A fistful of corresponding 12V bulbs (dash, stop/tail, etc.), including headlights.

  5. An ignition ballast resistor which will he installed in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil (You've seen 'em on the firewall. like a'55 Chevy.) Ballast resistor not needed with a built-in resistor coil. A reducer for each accessory, such as your heater.

  6. Use Runtz guage resistor for gas guage and heater resistor ... any fuel, temperature and oil pressure other than mechanical.

    Note: Certain components will need to he converted to 12 volts. Among them: convertible top motors, overdrive solenoids, and radios. A simple resistor will not work on these.

    If your vehicle is equipped with an ammeter, it will function properly on either 6 or 12 volts, so it will not need any modification or resistor.